Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Collection
Daniel Roseberry is no stranger to changing gears. At a moment of profound evolution in the luxury sector, the Schiaparelli designer unveiled his most futuristic collection yet: the prelude, according to him, to a reset of his creative process amid a wave of designer shake-ups that promises to reshape the competitive landscape next season. Coincidentally, Roseberry’s fall collection evoked another chaotic moment: the interwar period, when founder Elsa Schiaparelli revolutionized fashion language with her surrealist designs, often created in collaboration with artist friends like Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí.
Roseberry pulled black-and-white photographs from the archives and transcribed them into an avant-garde collection where color was stripped away in favor of metallic surface effects. “There’s something about that time that felt sad and yet intense,” he said backstage after the show, which he titled “Back to the Future.”
Silver sequins gleamed on a black jacket with sharp shoulders and short sleeves and burst across a transparent black tulle reproduction of the “Apollo of Versailles” cape, designed in 1938 for American actress and interior designer Elsie de Wolfe—one of the highlights of the brand’s retrospective at the Paris museum in 2022.
While hourglass constructions remained true to the designer’s aesthetic, for every padded hip there was a bias-cut fitted gown designed to reveal expanses of skin—none more so than a black satin mermaid dress, with a low back exposing a rhinestone-encrusted thong that evoked Tom Ford’s famous Gucci G-string.
Roseberry leaned into fetishistic glamour with a black dominatrix bustier shaped like a saddle frame and molded breasts with erect nipples. These elements appeared over a pearl-gray satin body plate trimmed in black harness straps and protruded from the back of a red satin gown with corset lace, topped with a rhinestone necklace shaped like a human heart that pulsed mechanically.
With her sleek chignon, glossy black lips, and silver stiletto heels, Anasofia Negrutsa—dressed in a silver motorcycle jacket with matador epaulets—looked like a blend of sci-fi classics Blade Runner and Metropolis.
Roseberry said the collection was inspired by a world and an industry on the edge, both then and now. “I wanted it to feel like a sort of farewell. We’re going to restructure everything after this,” he said. “I think if you want to change the outcome, you have to change the process, and I just want to keep moving forward.”
