Schiaparelli Spring 2025: Opulence Returns at Haute Couture
Opening Paris Haute Couture Week, the designer Daniel Roseberry celebrated excess and artistry with pieces rooted in early 20th-century craftsmanship and historical silhouettes.
The collection featured Schiaparelli’s signature hourglass shape, inspired by the brand’s iconic Shocking perfume bottle. Corsets with dramatically nipped-in waists were a key focus, paired with bold, sculptural elements like plunging necklines and exaggerated bustle details. One of the most striking looks was a nude mesh gown worn by Kendall Jenner, adorned with pearl-gray embroidered satin and finished with an intricately draped, sculptural train.
Roseberry drew inspiration for the collection’s muted palette—featuring dusty nudes, soft greens, and deep saffron tones—from antique ribbons dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These colors and textures came together in designs with meticulously layered satin ribbons, evoking timeless glamour reminiscent of Naomi Watts’ dress at the Golden Globes.
Compared to past seasons, this collection felt less conceptual but equally inventive, achieving a seamless blend of structure and extravagance. It served as a tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli’s ethos, bringing rigor and whimsy together in perfect harmony. Titled “Icarus,” the collection was not a cautionary tale but an ode to the escapism haute couture can offer—brief, breathtaking moments that transcend everyday life.
