In an industry where few designers transcend fashion itself, Donatella Versace continues to solidify her status as a true cultural icon. Since taking over the house in 1997 after the tragic loss of her brother, Gianni Versace, she has masterfully kept its essence alive, reinterpreting it with a bold and contemporary vision.
For the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Donatella delivered a clear message: she doesn’t follow rules—only those embedded in Versace’s DNA. The show opened with striking pieces crafted from Versace Home quilts, sculpted into dramatic volumes and printed with the house’s signature motifs, evoking the opulence of Gianni Versace’s residences.
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The brand’s historical archive once again served as a key point of reference. Donatella revisited essential elements from Atelier Versace Fall 1997, such as off-the-shoulder silhouettes and voluminous crinoline skirts paired with structured corsets. Throughout the collection, Versace’s signature “V” was a recurring detail—embedded into bustiers, adorning casual shirts as decorative pockets, and seamlessly integrated into color-blocked chainmail skirts and dresses.
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In Donatella Versace’s own words: “This is the collection of Versace superheroes. A collection where the house’s globally recognized codes take center stage, reinforcing our identity. I love clothing that empowers people, that gives them strength and confidence. Everyone should embrace a bit of that Versace attitude. In this collection, I break all the rules. I only follow those that come from Versace’s DNA itself.”
However, Donatella’s vision wasn’t just rooted in the past. 3D-printed pieces, introduced last season, returned in even bolder iterations, now embellished with oversized crystals. And in a clear nod to younger audiences, rhinestone-embroidered denim offered a fresh take on 2000s glamour.
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Yet, the most emotional moment of the evening was the reappearance of two stunning gowns in unraveled metallic thread—one in gold, the other in silver—inspired by Donatella’s 1998 couture collection. The golden gown, in particular, exuded a red-carpet aura, as if already destined for a future Oscar winner.
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More than just a collection, Donatella Versace reaffirmed her role as the ultimate guardian of the house’s legacy. With her unwavering vision, she made one thing clear: the power and glamour of Versace are more relevant than ever.
In an industry where solemnity often dominates the runway, Moschino once again reminds us that fashion can—and should—be fun. For his second collection at the helm of the brand, Adrian Appiolaza reaffirms his irreverent approach, blending irony, theatricality, and impeccable execution that challenges conventional notions of luxury.
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From the very first look, the message was clear: “Luxury is relative”, boldly printed on a T-shirt that set the tone for a show packed with references to consumer fashion and pop culture. Days before, Moschino had already teased its signature wit on social media. One clip featured a model taking out the trash with a bag labeled “C’est Trash Chic!”, while another showed an oversized needle stitching a fake basting thread onto a jacket, emphasizing the handcrafted nature of fashion.
On the runway, Appiolaza presented a collage-like aesthetic, as if each look had been discovered in a high-end vintage store: layered ensembles, clashing prints, and silhouettes that seemed to travel through different eras. Among the cast of characters, we saw babydoll dresses transformed into life-sized paper dolls, haute couture chefs carrying luxury cookie bags, and winemakers clutching custom 2025 “Buon Moscvino” bottles.
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Accessories, always a key element at Moschino, played a starring role. Hyperrealistic spaghetti-shaped handbags, Polaroid brooches, oversized costume pearls, and even futon-inspired hats injected humor while maintaining a level of sophistication. When it came to materials, Appiolaza showcased his mastery of construction and texture: structured wool, printed silks, and rich jacquards were expertly combined into tailoring that redefined classic codes with a modern, asymmetrical twist.
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Sustainability was also present—Moschino style, of course. Trash bags were transformed into bustiers, dresses, and purses, subverting traditional notions of luxury. The show’s finale, with Alex Consani wearing a T-shirt dress emblazoned with “Save our Sphere”, served as a playful yet poignant reminder of the fashion industry’s environmental impact.
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What sets Appiolaza apart is his ability to balance the absurd with the functional. His most viral pieces—like his reinterpretation of Levi’s featuring an oversized waistband patch reading “In Love We Trust” or the spaghetti bag, which is bound to take over social media—are paired with precise tailoring and textiles designed for longevity.
With this collection, Moschino Fall/Winter 2025 delivers more than just a visual spectacle—it offers a clever satire on consumerism and the evolving concept of luxury in contemporary fashion. Because in Moschino’s world, you can have your head in the clouds—while keeping your feet firmly on the ground.
The Tod’s Fall 2025 show not only reaffirmed the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship but also encapsulated a modern, understated luxury through refined silhouettes and exquisite materials. Under the creative direction of Matteo Tamburini, the collection seamlessly merged sartorial precision with the sensuality of textures.
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The venue, Milan’s PAC Contemporary Art Museum, made a bold statement. Upon entering, guests were met with Carla Bruni standing majestically on a pedestal, draped in a sculptural gown made from fragments of recycled leather. This installation, created by Nelly Agassi, symbolized Tod’s commitment to artisanal excellence, a value long championed by the brand’s owner, Diego Della Valle.
Tamburini explored the materiality of fashion through references to Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri, and Lucio Fontana, Italian artists known for their experimental approach to texture. Brushed alpaca coats in striking black and white, trench coats with trompe-l’œil effects, and impeccably crafted leather pieces translated artistic inspiration into wearable desirability. A standout was a double-breasted mohair coat, with buttons strategically placed along the sides, modernizing Tod’s signature tailoring and redefining this season’s silhouette.
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Accessories further elevated the collection: the iconic Gommino was reimagined in plush python leather, while the W.G. ankle boot took on a sleek, structured Chelsea boot form. Handbags like the Di Bag Folio in patchwork and the newly redesigned Wave—now lighter and more flexible—reinforced the balance between tradition and contemporary elegance.
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With this collection, Tamburini refines his visual language, propelling Tod’s into a new era of understated sophistication, where heritage craftsmanship seamlessly intertwines with a modern approach to dressing. As Della Valle aptly stated before the show, “Machines will never replace our artisans,” a reminder that in luxury fashion, true sophistication lies in the human touch.
With its Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection, Etro embraces a quieter, more deliberate approach to luxury, moving away from past exuberance while staying true to its signature love of print and texture. Marco De Vincenzo, the house’s creative director, continues his masterful reinterpretation of Etro’s storied heritage, proving that restraint can be just as impactful as opulence.
The show opened with a bold statement: a sumptuous black-and-white striped wool-fur coat, casually draped over Paisley-print relaxed trousers—a pairing that set the tone for a collection rooted in contrast: bold yet understated, ornate yet effortlessly wearable.
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At the heart of this season’s offering lies a deep exploration of fabric and form. The silhouettes remain elegant and practical, but textures steal the spotlight, with rubberized and high-gloss finishes adding dimension to weighty, luxurious materials. A collaboration with Korean artist Maria Jeon introduced intricate zoology-inspired embroidery, while botanical prints—magnified and abstracted—adorned fluid ribbed wool dresses and sheer organza tunics.
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The show’s set, designed by Numero Cromatico, featured a sweeping curtain depicting mythical and primitive creatures, a visual cue that mirrored the collection’s focus on tactile depth and sensory allure. Outerwear took center stage, with plush fur-trimmed coats speaking to the broader return of indulgent textures this season, while ’70s-inspired dusters lent a vintage sophistication to the lineup.
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With this collection, De Vincenzo refines the Etro woman’s wardrobe, balancing rich heritage with modern restraint. The result is an offering that feels decadent yet effortless, daring yet wearable—a testament to Etro’s ability to evolve without losing sight of its DNA.
In the Fall 2025 collection by MM6 Maison Margiela, the design team meticulously refines the house’s conceptual essence, exploring fashion through its purest construction. Anchored by three principles—Expand, Reduce, Wardrobe—the brand dissects everyday dressing and transforms it into an exercise in textile innovation and altered proportions.
Silhouettes push the boundaries of extremes. Amplified garments take shape through padded hangers and removable panels, designed to extend shoulder width and add volume to blazers, puffers, and tailored overcoats. In contrast, reduction is achieved through ribbed, sheer, compressive knits, layered over shirts, dresses, and trench coats, intentionally exposing side seams as a subtle nod to transformation. A play of opposites that captures the essence of deconstruction with impeccable execution.
Materials reinforce this approach. Crisp cottons, structured wools, and polished leather create a synergy between rigid and fluid, while accessories reflect the brand’s signature irony: square-toe boots paired with trompe-l’œil tights, face-less watches reimagined as bracelets, and extra-long gloves designed in collaboration with Agnelle.
More than just a collection, MM6 Fall 2025 is an exploration of fashion’s inner workings. With a masterful balance of technique, concept, and wearability, the brand reaffirms its ability to reinterpret Margiela’s legacy—not through nostalgia, but with a clarity and sophistication that feel more relevant than ever.
If there’s one thing Miuccia Prada masters, it’s the art of contradiction—and her Fall 2025 collection, created in collaboration with Raf Simons, is yet another testament to her genius. At Milan Fashion Week, Prada presented a fascinating exploration of femininity through a play of contrasts: impeccable tailoring set against disheveled silhouettes, demure skirts paired with deliberately tousled hair, luxury with a studied sense of imperfection.
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The runway, framed by steel bars and vintage floral-print carpets, provided the perfect setting for a collection that challenges traditional notions of femininity. Loose black knee-length dresses, which might be considered “unkempt” in another context, exuded pure sophistication here. They were followed by voluminous coats worn without pants, slouchy sweaters with oversized buttons, and wrinkled skirts—as if they had been worn and forgotten, yet still exuded a carefully crafted charm.
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Prada has never been a brand that plays it safe, and this season confirms that masterful balance between polished and raw aesthetics. Belted tailored jackets, structured pencil skirts with oversized pockets, and corporate-inspired skirt suits contrasted with more undone pieces, like pajama tops styled with worn-out white sneakers. The idea of femininity here is neither singular nor absolute: it’s multifaceted, flexible, and in constant reinvention.
Accessories played a key role in this narrative. Knit collars adorned with jewels, tube tops embellished with brooches, pearl buttons on structured coats, and Art Deco-inspired chain pendants added an unexpected layer of refinement to each look. The final piece, an oversized gray coat with pearl buttons, closed the show with a clear statement: luxury can have a rebellious streak.
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Beyond aesthetics, this collection sparks a dialogue about the evolving codes of femininity in contemporary culture. At a time when discussions on aging, motherhood, and societal expectations of women’s appearance are at the forefront, Prada responds with a collection that challenges conventional norms and reclaims imperfection as a new form of sophistication.
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As always, Miuccia Prada doesn’t offer easy answers—but she does pose thought-provoking questions that push us to reconsider the meaning of beauty. And in this tension between refined and undone, serious and ironic, conservative and subversive, Prada once again proves why she remains one of the most influential voices in contemporary fashion.
Silvia Venturini Fendi had an unenviable task: how do you celebrate five generations, 100 years of design, and an unparalleled legacy without getting lost in nostalgia? Her answer was clear—by looking forward. The Fendi Fall/Winter 2025 collection wasn’t a mere archival tribute but rather a vivid reinterpretation of the house’s codes, filtered through memory, craftsmanship, and modernity.
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The setting itself was a mirage of history—a nod to the iconic boutique and atelier on Via Borgognona in Rome, where the five Fendi sisters—Alda, Anna, Carla, Franca, and Paola—worked by day and hosted the glittering jet set of Cinecittà by night. It was a place where secrets were whispered, glamour was second nature, and the essence of Fendi was defined.
This season, that spirit was distilled into a collection that exuded confidence, heritage, and innovation. The opening look—a faux-mink coat worn as a dress, paired with satin open-toe heels—immediately set the tone: classic yet subversive, luxurious yet effortless. Throughout the show, sculptural silhouettes emerged, as pleated leather and tweed encrusted with embellishments carved out powerful, rounded shoulders. Meanwhile, wool coats were accessorized with furry Baguette bags, and a playful combination of netted veils and knit caps added an eccentric, aristocratic touch.
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Accessories were far from an afterthought—they were a statement. The iconic Peekaboo was reinvented with a plush, textural makeover, while the Spy Bag made its much-anticipated return, reclaiming its place in Fendi’s visual lexicon. Even in menswear, Silvia’s asymmetrical lapels, floor-length fur stoles, and unexpected bursts of color challenged traditional Italian tailoring. Canary yellow, burnt orange, lace, and beaded accents disrupted the usual severity of menswear, making for a refreshing break from the monotony of recent seasons.
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Then, there were the oversized Fendi plush toys—a knowing wink to the brand’s legacy of playful, collectible accessories. In a show so steeped in history, this touch of irreverence was exactly what was needed to balance the grandeur with a sense of lightness.
For Silvia, this was more than just a runway show—it was a personal reflection on the house she has known her entire life. She opened with a deeply sentimental nod to her own past: a memory from 1966, when Karl Lagerfeld asked six-year-old Silvia to walk the runway in an equestrian ensemble. In a poignant full-circle moment, her grandsons, Tazio and Dardo—also six years old—took to the runway wearing oversized replicas of that very look, symbolizing five generations of Fendi’s creative spirit.
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Yet, for all its homage to heritage, the collection avoided the pitfall of heavy-handed nostalgia. Instead, Silvia sought to capture the raw emotion, adrenaline, and evolution of the house’s DNA. There were few literal references to past collections, but subtle homages were woven throughout—most notably in the loose-knit caps with delicate veils, a tribute to Adele Fendi, who famously framed her face with a netted headpiece tied to her chignon.
Gender fluidity was another strong undercurrent, seamlessly woven into mohair knits with blurred horizontal stripes, embroidered embellishments, and tonal zigzag-striped mink coats. Some menswear pieces made an impact—like a striking lemon-yellow chaban coat—but, as expected, womenswear took center stage.
No discussion of Fendi is complete without fur, but here, Silvia took a forward-thinking approach. While fur remains intrinsic to the house’s heritage, most standout outerwear pieces were crafted from shearling rather than mink, underscoring a shift towards conscious luxury. The red polka-dot dress, in particular, stood out as a dazzling display of the house’s artisanal excellence, seamlessly blending tradition with technical innovation.
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More than just a centennial spectacle, Fendi FW25 was a masterclass in balancing legacy with evolution. In a moment when many brands are leaning heavily on nostalgia, Silvia Venturini Fendi chose to push forward, crafting a collection that honors the past without being burdened by it. Through a mix of emotional storytelling, exquisite craftsmanship, and daring reinvention, she reaffirmed Fendi’s place at the forefront of fashion’s next century—a house built by women, for women, and always in conversation with the future.
Few brands embody rebellion and irreverence as effortlessly as Diesel under Glenn Martens’ creative vision. For Fall/Winter 2025, the Belgian designer took his deconstructive approach to new extremes, presenting a collection that distorted tradition with radical intent.
The scale of the spectacle was impossible to ignore. Diesel distributed six miles of white fabric to artists and students across China, South Africa, the U.S., the U.K., and Europe, inviting them to leave their mark. The fabric returned, now covered in graffiti-style lettering from over 7,000 contributors, transforming into a chaotic yet meaningful backdrop. Alongside it, Diesel’s massive inflatable dolls from Spring 2023, repurposed and spray-painted with cursive script, completed what felt like a monumental street art installation.
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Yet beyond the visual impact, Martens constructed a cohesive narrative. His concept? “Coco Chanel gets drunk on sherry with the Queen at Balmoral”—a surreal yet compelling image that unfolded into a collision of classic tailoring, underground aesthetics, and psychedelic distortions.
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The silhouettes followed a structured yet rebellious logic: the upper half featured bouclé tailoring, the waistline exposed sharp cuts and unexpected transparencies, and the lower half embraced ultra-low-rise denim and deconstructed leather pants. The tweed blazers in gray, pink, and green clearly referenced Chanel’s heritage, yet they were fractured and reimagined through Diesel’s raw, deconstructed aesthetic.
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Martens’ textile experimentation was defiant and bold. Leather was molded and baked into weightless, organic forms, while houndstooth jacquard blurred into a dreamlike haze, and quilted fabrics collapsed into garments that seemed to be unraveling in real-time. Among the standout looks, twinsets in checkered jacquard paired with ultra-flocked tulle skirts twisted traditional debutante codes into something deliberately irreverent.
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The accessories carried the same rebellious spirit. The Flag-D and Load-D bags challenged gender norms, while the Liquifie-D sunglasses and ultra-thick platform shoes reinforced the collection’s futuristic, almost sci-fi aesthetic.
Diesel’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is more than just fashion—it’s proof that creativity can still be daring, disruptive, and electrifying. At a time when commercial demands often dilute innovation, Martens reminds us that fashion remains alive, pulsing with energy, and capable of challenging conventions in the most exhilarating way.
If there’s one thing Dean and Dan Caten understand better than most, it’s the art of spectacle. To celebrate 30 years of Dsquared2, the twin designers delivered an unapologetically bold, high-energy runway show that was equal parts nostalgic tribute and theatrical extravaganza.
Titled “Obsessed2,” the collection was a full-throttle homage to the brand’s evolution—from its irreverent beginnings to its status as a fashion provocateur. The set itself was pure showmanship: a hyper-stylized New York City street scene, complete with vintage limousines, yellow taxis, and trucks unloading a parade of eccentric characters. Showgirls, leather-clad bikers, cowboys, fetish-inspired figures, and bodybuilders stormed the runway, embodying the rebellious, sexy energy that has long defined the brand.
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True to its signature aesthetic, the collection embraced oversized outerwear, exaggerated proportions, and a fearless approach to provocation. A nod to its ever-evolving identity, collaborations with Magliano, Vaquera, and Bettter injected fresh perspectives into classic Dsquared2 tropes, proving that while the brand thrives on excess, it also knows how to reinvent itself.
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But this wasn’t just about fashion—it was a star-studded, high-voltage performance. Supermodels and music icons descended to honor the Catens, with Naomi Campbell commanding the spotlight, while Doechii and JT’s electrifying performance heightened the show’s feverish energy. And then, in true Dsquared2 fashion, the finale took a turn for the cinematic: Brigitte Nielsen stormed in as a police officer, “arresting” the Caten twins, only for them to break free—decked out in tuxedos and towering platform shoes—before escaping to a riotous after-party.
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Yet beneath all the theatrics, the collection carried a deeply personal touch, dedicated to Julie Enfield, a longtime muse and model who shaped the brand’s journey. In the end, Dsquared2’s 30th anniversary show was more than just a celebration—it was a statement, a reaffirmation that after three decades, the brand remains as rebellious, youthful, and uninhibited as ever.
Lorenzo Serafini made his grand entrance as the new creative director of Alberta Ferretti, unveiling a collection that blended his personal vision of sensuality with a deep respect for the brand’s legacy. Inspired by Franca Sozzani, the designer paid tribute to both Alberta Ferretti, the house’s founder, and the iconic Vogue Italia editor, whose philosophy of dreaming big shaped the essence of the collection.
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The show took place at the historic Palazzo Donizetti, a luxurious and intimate setting that enhanced the collection’s romantic character. Serafini embraced fluid tailoring, featuring collarless cashmere coats, oversized shearling jackets, and enveloping scarves that wrapped around the female form. Lightness and movement were key elements in his designs, with subtle ruffles, sheer fabrics, and intricate beaded details adding embellishment without excess.
The dresses stood out for their delicate craftsmanship, showcasing meticulously designed pleats and ruffles, culminating in a spectacular final look crafted from 45 meters of hand-pleated chiffon. Rather than focusing on ostentation, femininity was expressed through sensuality rather than sexuality, making an impact through silhouettes and movement.
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Decorative touches appeared in handmade resin buttons and unique jewelry, created by a Cypriot artist and evoking antique cameo portraits. Among the most memorable moments were a velvet dress interwoven with a dark floral mesh and an oversized abstract orchid adorning the shoulder of another design.
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With this debut, Serafini proved that his vision for Alberta Ferretti is not just a modern reinterpretation of romanticism but also a masterful fusion of evolution and heritage.
