Altuzarra Spring 2027 Collection
For Spring 2027, Joseph Altuzarra traded quiet romance for something more liberated: a wardrobe built around self-expression, masculine codes, and unapologetic femininity.
The collection was inspired by Casa Susanna, a private retreat in New York’s Catskills during the 1950s and ’60s where men gathered to dress as women. Altuzarra was drawn to the photographs documenting the community’s freedom and joy, particularly the way its members transformed existing garments to create identities of their own.
That spirit of transformation shaped the collection. “We were looking a lot around the idea of how someone would have made their own clothes or taken menswear and twisted it into something that felt really feminine,” Altuzarra explained. The result was a wardrobe that deliberately blurred the boundaries between masculine and feminine.
The show opened with punk-inflected femininity: raw silk taffeta full skirts in 1950s-inspired madras and twisted shift dresses set against mannish workwear and biker jackets. Exaggerated trapeze silhouettes and leather belts with metal grommets added a harder edge.
The contrasts continued throughout. Workwear trousers were paired with soft T-shirts, while cardigans and precise tailoring were finished with removable menswear collars and cuffs. Delicate layered slips and linen handkerchief pieces introduced a more intimate counterpoint.
Altuzarra also played with the idea of revealing what lies beneath. Tropical wool—a traditionally masculine fabric—was torn open to expose exuberant feminine embroidery underneath. Lingerie details appeared beneath ripped tanks and shift dresses, turning destruction into a form of decoration.
The collection softened further through vintage-inspired pleated and hand-embroidered body-skimming dresses, alongside gauzy knit cocktail dresses finished with crystal edges and dégradé sequin hems.
