Acne Studios Spring 2026 Collection
For Spring 2026, Jonny Johansson confronted one of fashion’s most dominant trends — the surge of naked dressing — with a collection that was both genderfluid and resistant to easy stereotypes. Despite Sweden’s famously relaxed attitudes toward nudity, Johansson has never seen women as objects of desire, and the prevalence of transparency on today’s runways left him questioning. “I kept seeing people basically getting undressed,” he mused. “It puzzled me, so I felt I had to either resist it or twist it to my own language.”
The venue set the tone: the Collège des Bernardins, a 13th-century Gothic structure on Paris’s Left Bank, reimagined as the interior of a cigar box in warm tobacco hues. Against this moody backdrop, Johansson staged a dialogue between lingerie-inspired sensuality and androgynous tailoring, toggling between sheer slips and sharp, masculine codes.
Models with spiky rockabilly quiffs stormed the runway in crinkled paper-cotton suits and patinated leather tailoring, their swagger amplified by elongated cowboy boots. Johansson amped up the toughness with oversized biker jackets, ribbed tank tops, and slouchy flannels, pushing the butch energy to the fore.
But the boudoir touch was never far behind. Hourglass lace dresses with corset lacing, delicate slips with transparent panels, and a striking nude lace bustier with an angular neckline explored femininity on Johansson’s terms, never objectifying, always empowering. The bustier, fast becoming a Paris trend, looked ready to pair with Acne’s reworked jeans — this season coated in glossy plastic or cracked-paint finishes.
Elsewhere, Johansson merged the two worlds: a slick black leather pantsuit layered over a lace bodysuit carried both edge and sensuality, echoing the voice of Swedish singer Robyn, who crafted the show’s pulsing soundtrack. The interplay of boys and girls, toughness and vulnerability, exposure and concealment defined the collection, proving once again that Acne Studios thrives in the spaces where categories blur.
