Jacquemus Fall 2025 Collection
Born into a farming family, the designer incorporated aprons, petticoats, fichu collars, trousers, and kerchiefs into his fashion universe.
His mood board was dominated by images of people working in fields or selling their harvests by the roadside.
The show was more autobiographical than usual, true to the designer’s drive for self-betterment and his growing interest in haute couture techniques, but also emotionally charged in the way he wove aprons, petticoats, fichu collars, trousers, and kerchiefs into his fashion vocabulary. He titled the collection “Le Paysan” (The Peasant).
Famous for staging evocative shows among lavender fields, salt flats, or stately homes, Jacquemus returned to the Palace of Versailles, this time in its Orangerie, preserved in a raw, cavernous state, with a single row of wooden chairs offering views of the potted trees outside through open windows. He opened the show with a small blond girl running across the runway to open a tall door so models could enter from the gardens—a childhood dream come true.
On the catwalk, his countryside-to-runway narrative came alive through an abundance of sack dresses and smock blouses, some dramatically oversized, and wide, sweeping skirts worn like aprons, with fabric piled into dense pleats at the front. He also presented simpler slip dresses with the same apron-like effect, pared down beautifully in cream and black.
He worked plain fabrics like cotton poplin and linen into striking geometric volumes—some tiered dresses evoked Christmas trees—and a leather jacket was shaped like a calisson, the French confection made from almonds and candied fruit. He didn’t entirely abandon the summer sensuality that has made the brand so beloved. There were sheer chiffon dresses with batwing sleeves and embroidered tulle halterneck styles that draped fluidly over the body.
