Jil Sander Spring 2026 Collection
For his debut mixed-gender collection at Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti chose to bring the house back to the purist codes that made it iconic. Staged inside the label’s austere Milan headquarters, designed by Michael Gabellini, the presentation reflected Bellotti’s guiding principle of “apparent simplicity.”
Rather than continuing the artistic flourishes and cinematic storytelling introduced by Luke and Lucie Meier during their seven-year tenure, Bellotti revisited the sharp graphic purity that defined Raf Simons’ era at Jil Sander between 2005 and 2012. His vision: to strike a balance between modernity and timeless classicism while reclaiming the brand’s essential elegance.
Tailoring anchored the collection with structured blazers, high-buttoned suits in narrow—and occasionally boxy—cuts, and exquisitely crafted leather coats designed for both men and women. Innovation came through in subtle yet striking details: diagonal slashes reminiscent of Lucio Fontana carved across shirts and pencil skirts, cutout waistbands on trousers, and circular eyelets on sleek dresses that exposed coordinated lingerie.
Texture and volume added further dimension. Crisp white shirts were softened with delicate ruffles, while mille-feuille–style layered embroidery enriched sleeveless dresses. Perhaps the most intriguing touches were the geometric protrusions applied to skirts, blouses, and even shoes, directly inspired by Wolfgang Tillmans’ folded paper studies pinned to Bellotti’s mood board.
