Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2025 Collection
Heading up the Artisanal line at Maison Margiela for the first time, Glenn Martens immersed himself in the brand’s edgy conceptual roots, unveiling a collection that was strikingly dark, theatrical, and rooted in DIY spirit.
Presented in a gritty underground venue—where walls were wrapped in interior photocopies and the floor featured papier-mâché checkerboard—the show paid tribute to Margiela’s enigmatic, rebellious past. Each garment evoked a sense of post-apocalyptic unearthed artifacts: aged fabrics, faded florals, vintage leather jackets, and pieces repurposed from discarded costume jewelry.
Martens wove medieval and Flemish influences throughout, selecting prints inspired by 17th-century still lifes and brought them to life through added illusion tulle layers that created a multi-dimensional effect. With unconventional materials such as transparent plastic, oil-painted denim, and stiff gabardine, he solidified a boldly avant-garde aesthetic.
Highlights included voluminous silhouettes, metallic duchess satin, abstract corsetry, and unsettling masks, which elevated the collection’s dramatic flair. A standout piece echoed the haunting tone of Dead Can Dance’s album art (Within the Realm of a Dying Sun), featuring a mournful, sculptural silhouette.
Rather than imitating Galliano, Martens forged his own visionary path, offering a fresh creative statement that both honors Margiela’s legacy of provocation and pushes couture into new territory. In a historic step, CEO Gaetano Sciuto confirmed that this Artisanal collection will be available for purchase—a first for the line.
Martens delivered a bold debut that challenges traditional couture norms. It may unsettle or surprise, but above all, it fulfills fashion’s most essential purpose: to provoke, inspire, and lead forward.
