Rabanne Pre-Fall 2025: A Nautical Journey with Julien Dossena
Julien Dossena brings a deeply personal touch to Rabanne’s Pre-Fall 2025 collection, drawing inspiration from his childhood in a coastal fishing town in Brittany. Rooted in nautical aesthetics, the collection reimagines timeless maritime staples—striped sailor shirts and pea coats—with the designer’s signature bohemian and grunge-infused 1970s flair.
At the heart of this collection lies an ingenious balance of tradition and innovation. A standout piece is the yellow oilskin jacket, crafted in collaboration with Guy Cotten, a renowned outfitter for professional fishermen. This functional yet stylish creation sits alongside a striking evening dress that masterfully combines gold chainmail with black lace, blurring the lines between utility and high fashion.
Continuing Rabanne’s legacy of space-age innovation, Dossena introduces a black raincoat with a detachable silver lining and a selection of mini waterproof canvas bags and bucket hats. The technical, weatherproof designs coexist seamlessly with softer, sailor-inspired garments such as a graphic rope-button jacket and neoprene-striped hoodies, bringing a fresh twist to seaside fashion staples.
Dossena’s connection to these pieces runs deep. “These are the items I grew up with, that my family and I wore. It’s about adapting them to my work today and how they resonate with me personally,” he shared during a preview. His relaxed take on glamour shines through, as seen in pieces like a baby doll dress styled with a cardigan reminiscent of Queen Elizabeth II’s countryside attire, and a mix of bold printed blouses with masculine outerwear, including a vintage-inspired cognac leather biker jacket.
This collection seamlessly transitions from daywear to evening elegance, incorporating beach-ready crochet separates adorned with metallic beads, shimmering chainmail pareo skirts, and sleek jersey dresses with swimsuit-inspired cutouts. The clever interplay of textures and silhouettes captures a sense of ease and versatility.
Touches of nostalgia are woven into the collection, from terrycloth tops and skirts featuring bold graphic stripes that nod to Sonia Delaunay’s 1920s knitwear designs, to a floral print lifted from a 1993 Kurt Cobain photo wearing a vintage dress on the cover of The Face. Accessories further enrich the narrative, with conch-shell embellishments adorning the brand’s iconic 1969 bag, nautilus-shaped earrings, and anchor-pendant necklaces evoking a maritime dreamscape.
