Minimalism Reimagined: Calvin Klein Fall 2025 Collection
After a six-year hiatus from the runway, Calvin Klein made a triumphant return to New York Fashion Week with a ready-to-wear collection designed by Veronica Leoni. PVH, the brand’s parent company, entrusted Leoni with restoring Calvin Klein’s fashion prestige, building on the recent success of its underwear line, which has made waves with star-powered campaigns featuring figures like Jeremy Allen White.
The collection, which spanned both menswear and womenswear, stood out for its reinterpretation of classic American minimalism, blending structured elegance with a contemporary edge. Leoni drew inspiration from the brand’s iconic aesthetic without falling into direct nostalgia. Instead, she used the archives as a springboard for fresh ideas. “I didn’t want this to be just an archival project,” Leoni explained during a preview, though she admitted Calvin Klein’s influence had shaped her youth in Rome more than she realized.
The show featured impeccable tailoring that played with proportions. From slim suits with tapered trousers to relaxed, pajama-inspired silhouettes, the collection reflected a balance between sharpness and ease. Leoni also experimented with knee-length skirts, evoking references like Eleanor from Severance, but with a subtler, more sophisticated approach.
Sportswear drew from American archetypes: plaid flannel shirts reminiscent of taxi drivers, dark brushed Japanese denim, and sweetheart-neckline red dresses paired with western booties. Eveningwear showcased modern sophistication with gray enamel-sequined dresses and classic draped jerseys, while minaudières shaped like the iconic CK One bottle paid homage to the ‘90s.
However, it was in outerwear that Leoni truly excelled. The brand’s signature double-faced wool coats were reinterpreted with enveloping cuts that looked far more luxurious than the “premium fashion” label might suggest. One standout piece was a cape crafted from strips of organza that draped elegantly off the shoulders, adding a touch of restrained provocation.
Nautical-inspired looks also made an appearance, including an oversized cream anorak paired with a matching beret and a beaded gold dress that clicked and clacked with every step. For menswear, plaid shirts and square-toed boots subtly referenced Raf Simons’ era at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, while Leoni admitted she enjoyed designing menswear for this collection, “especially because you have to find muses outside of yourself,” she noted.
The collection combined “monumental minimalism” with a playful touch, capturing the tension between the brand’s past and future. While the execution was strong, some finishes revealed the gap between “premium fashion” and true luxury. With outerwear starting at $1,300, dresses at $950, and jeans at $450, the collection targets an audience seeking quality and design without venturing into the highest tiers of luxury.
With this collection, Veronica Leoni lays the groundwork for a new chapter in Calvin Klein’s history, blending iconic cultural references with a fresh perspective that could propel the brand into a new era of global fashion relevance.
