Rick Owens Spring 2026 Collection
Rick Owens, the master of brutalist glamour, surprised Paris this season with a rare embrace of lingerie codes and sheer fabrics, creating one of his most unexpectedly beautiful collections in years. “I don’t usually work with delicate clothes, so I thought: let’s try that,” he said with his usual deadpan calm before the show, staged outdoors at the Palais de Tokyo.
The “delicate cycle” in Owenscorp meant nothing less than models striding through the reflecting pool in towering platform boots, sheer hems trailing in the water and catching the light. Layers of transparent fabric were stacked over one another — “I kept piling them up,” Owens explained — producing a sense of subtle nudity that never felt vulgar.
Owens’ take on lingerie was, of course, wholly his own. Gossamer chiffon panels draped from his signature anvil-like shoulders, this time rendered in molten metal. Stockings and dresses bore architectural seaming, while delicate ties and transparent overlays came in nylon and leather rather than silk and lace.
Despite the subversion, old Hollywood glamour pulsed through the collection, even when filtered through bondage leather trousers or evening gowns of industrial nylon, described in the notes as “randomly arranged.” Highlights included low-cut slip dresses, micro trenchcoats trailing into tuxedo tails, airy long-sleeved bomber jackets, and cropped blouses with sharp Dracula collars. Each look carried Owens’ unmistakable dignity, heightened by his dark, sober palette and understated luxury materials.
The spectacle was pure Owens: plumes of smoke, blasts of water, an ominous soundtrack, and models descending the imposing industrial staircase into the pool. Yet within the drama, the clothes exuded serenity — and many critics agreed this was one of his most beautiful shows in years. The finale, with all models returning for a collective plunge, sealed the moment in memory.
