Saint Laurent Fall 2025 Collection
Beneath the imposing Eiffel Tower, on the final night of Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent reaffirmed its leadership with a precise, bold, and characterful collection. Anthony Vaccarello, with his mastery of cut and construction, presented a show that captured the avant-garde spirit and timeless elegance of the house. The runway, framed by digital brown marble walls, served as a backdrop for a series of looks that balanced structure and fluidity. From the front row, where Austin Butler, Zoë Kravitz, Kid Cudi, and Charli XCX stood, one could feel the energy of a collection that defined the Saint Laurent woman with confidence and vitality.
The starting point was a silhouette that narrowed towards the bottom after a bold start at the shoulders, evoking an inverted triangle. Ribbon dresses with high collars, sharp-shouldered bomber jackets, and pencil skirts were paired with pointy stilettos and oversized sunglasses, projecting power and sophistication. The vibrant color palette played a key role, with shades such as fuchsia, coral, amethyst, citrine, emerald, terracotta, and olive standing out on the runway. Vaccarello revisited Saint Laurent’s haute couture references from the 1990s, a period once underrated but now masterfully revalued. Narrow skirts and blouses with back ties reaffirmed the house’s essence, while the complete absence of trousers clearly emphasized the focus on structured and sophisticated femininity.
The collection’s narrative shifted as night fell: voluminous floor-length skirts were paired with silk and lace camisoles, while classic leather bomber jackets provided an unexpected touch. Black, the house’s signature color, fused with tan and brown tones, achieving a flawless blend of classic and contemporary. The accessories reinforced the message: dark sunglasses, dramatic leather gloves, sculpted gold earrings, and slingbacks with curved heels. In a world where runways are increasingly commercialized, the complete absence of handbags made it clear that Vaccarello prefers to let the clothes speak for themselves.
Beyond the impeccable aesthetic execution, this collection was an exercise in creative honesty. Vaccarello demonstrated his commitment to fashion as an emotional and artistic expression, without commercial concessions or unnecessary artifice. And although he hinted at his interest in haute couture, he was adamant that what was shown in Paris was not. “If you want to do haute couture, do it. But do I want to do it? Well, yes, I’m thinking about it,” he confessed. With this collection, Saint Laurent and Vaccarello not only reaffirmed their vision of contemporary luxury, but also demonstrated that fashion, when it is authentic, needs no superfluous embellishments. It is power, it is emotion, and, above all, it is attitude.
