Thom Browne Fall 2025 Collection

Closing out New York Fashion Week, Thom Browne presented one of his most vibrant and accessible collections to date, merging his iconic tailoring with playful bird motifs and a deeper symbolic narrative. The runway, adorned with 2,000 origami birds, served as a whimsical backdrop for a collection that was both visually captivating and conceptually rich.

Bird imagery has become a consistent thread in Browne’s work. While last year he delved into Edgar Allan Poe’s dark raven, this season he drew inspiration from a birdwatching feature on 60 Minutes. “Given the current political climate, I wanted to offer a hopeful reference,” Browne noted. For him, birds represent the freedom to express oneself creatively, encouraging individuals to ignore external pressures and remain authentic.

The bird symbolism unfolded in both subtle and overt ways. The collection opened with couture-like silhouettes that mimicked the curves of a bird’s chest and rounded shoulders. As the show progressed, more intricate details appeared, such as bird embroidery and intarsia work reminiscent of John James Audubon’s meticulous illustrations. These designs graced oversized coats in traditional tweeds, bringing together classic tailoring and artistic detailing.

Although the show began with two models clad in Browne’s trademark gray ensembles, it quickly transitioned into a display of bold colors and custom-designed tweeds. Among the highlights were color-blocked dresses crafted from bias-cut satin strips that resembled feathers, alongside paint-splattered pieces that subtly referenced bird droppings—a humorous house signature for Browne.

Despite these playful elements, the collection retained an air of sophistication. “I wanted the concepts to feel traditional, but the execution to be anything but,” Browne explained, achieving a balance between classic silhouettes and unexpected details.

While Browne is celebrated for his theatrical runway presentations, this season’s collection leaned more towards wearability. The designer incorporated relaxed tailoring, including plaid jackets, trousers, and button-down shirts with ties, offering commercial appeal alongside his more fantastical designs. Noteworthy were the doll-like dresses supported by voluminous crinolines, which floated down the runway like childhood spinning tops. The finale featured a dramatic gold-embroidered jacket paired with a 40-meter tweed ball skirt, meticulously stitched by seamstresses during the pre-show fitting.

A small birdcage placed on the runway, containing a miniature version of Browne, hinted at a personal backstory. “My high school mascot was a canary—the only bird that can fly through the eye of a hurricane,” he shared, perhaps symbolizing resilience amidst life’s turbulence.

Browne also subtly acknowledged the challenges faced by designers today, from political tensions to the instability in the fashion industry. “Designers aren’t being treated well,” he remarked, suggesting solidarity with the broader creative community. However, his overarching message was clear: embrace your creative vision and find hope in self-expression.

Browne’s influence wasn’t confined to the runway. At this year’s Grammys, rapper Doechii made a statement wearing Browne’s designs, from a corseted striped gown on the red carpet to a tailored gray shorts suit during her performance. Her outfits showcased Browne’s ability to straddle high fashion and pop culture effortlessly.

In a fashion week often overshadowed by real-world events, Thom Browne delivered a collection that was both uplifting and thought-provoking. With a blend of playful motifs, intricate craftsmanship, and a strong narrative, Browne demonstrated that fashion can be a powerful medium for hope, humor, and individual freedom—even amidst the chaos of the world.