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Calcaterra Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Calcaterra Spring 2026 Collection

Calcaterra Spring 2026 Collection

Returning from a recent trip to Marrakech, Daniele Calcaterra channeled his impressions — desert landscapes, camels, and the rich culture of the Amazigh tribes — into the driving force of his Spring 2026 collection. The result was a refined offering where tailored structure met airy layers, enhanced by traditional geometric embroidery.

Courtesy of Calcaterra

The earthy palette of chocolate, stone, and corn was punctuated by shimmering silks inspired by Berber textiles. Highlights included a dramatic taupe coat layered over a khaki military-inflected look, and a monochromatic olive green ensemble pairing a bow-tied blouse with wide-leg trousers. Jackets came with exaggerated shawl collars or strong shoulders, often styled with patterned silk scarves knotted at the neck, suggesting both desert practicality and poetic flair.

Courtesy of Calcaterra

Amazigh embroidered panels appeared on sculptural white tops and trousers, as well as on an oversized fringed clutch, modeled after traditional camel water carriers. For evening, Calcaterra injected sensuality with feathers and fringe on fitted dresses, tiered skirts, and a playful white tunic styled with faded patchwork jeans, creating a relaxed, youthful counterpoint.

Courtesy of Calcaterra

Though some silhouettes felt heavy with layers and competing textures, the collection reflected Calcaterra’s exuberance for Moroccan traditions and showcased his ability to translate cultural references into sophisticated, narrative-driven design with a strong artisanal touch.

Bottega Veneta Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Bottega Veneta Spring 2026 Collection

Bottega Veneta Spring 2026 Collection

Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta was both confident and deeply rooted in the craftsmanship DNA of the house. The British designer placed the spotlight on the iconic Intrecciato leather weave — celebrating its 50th anniversary this year — making it the undisputed protagonist of her vision for the brand.

Courtesy Of Bottega Veneta

The most striking example of this approach was a majestic cape, requiring 4,000 hours of handwork to braid delicate 3-millimeter strips of brown leather. Trotter and her artisans also pushed the boundaries of materials, crafting voluminous, fuzzy garments from recycled fiberglass threads that seemed to glow from within, and plush butterfly-pattern skirts that quivered and rippled hypnotically.

Courtesy Of Bottega Veneta

While she did not stray far from the mature elegance and textural magic fostered under Matthieu Blazy, Trotter brought her own signature: austere yet voluptuous tailoring infused with her British sensibility and enriched by her recent immersion in Milanese style. Since relocating with her family to Italy’s fashion capital, she has also absorbed the colors, essence, and artisanal heritage of nearby Veneto and Murano’s glassmaking tradition — what she calls a personal take on the dolce vita.

Courtesy Of Bottega Veneta

The show unfolded in a minimalist set framed by arches, where guests perched on colorful glass stools as suspended woven-leather sculptures set the tone. The loose narrative traced Bottega Veneta’s own history, reimagined through standout pieces like a reinvented Lauren bag and nods to a time when Italian and American sportswear found creative synergy.

Ferragamo Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Ferragamo Spring 2026 Collection

Ferragamo Spring 2026 Collection

In rainy Milan, Maximilian Davis took a risk and staged Ferragamo’s Spring 2026 show outdoors at the Portrait Milano courtyard. Though the brown carpet was still soaked, the skies held long enough for the designer to deliver a sensual, sophisticated, and lounge-like take on the 1920s — the very decade when the Florentine house was born.

Courtesy Of Ferragamo

In his latest archival dive, Davis was struck by a photograph of actress Lola Todd, clad head to toe in leopard with a real cub by her side. This image sparked his reflection on how exotic textiles and leathers imported from Africa and the Caribbean once symbolized wealth and status, a theme resonating with his own Trinidadian-Jamaican heritage.

Courtesy Of Ferragamo

He also looked to the satirical works of John Held Jr., who captured Jazz Age life in magazines, sketching women in flapper dresses and men in sharp Zoot suits. What Davis drew from it was the spirit of rebellion: a generation building its own spaces, secret bars, and new codes of self-expression — especially women dressing for themselves.

Courtesy Of Ferragamo

The collection translated that energy into fluid tailoring with shawl collars, drop-waist straight dresses, and pajama sets. Animal prints morphed into abstract mottling on devoré satin, while flapper-inspired looks carried boudoir undertones with scalloped satin and airy lace.

Ferrari Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Ferrari Spring 2026 Collection

Ferrari Spring 2026 Collection

Creative director Rocco Iannone unveiled a collection where reduction and material purity became the cornerstones of a sophisticated, emotional kind of luxury. His mood board drew on a set of unexpected yet evocative references — from Pope John Paul II waving in a red Ferrari, to Miami Vice’s white Testarossa, Frank Ocean’s Blonde album cover, and vintage snapshots of Goldie Hawn and Monica Vitti with iconic Ferrari models. For Iannone, these images revealed Ferrari’s multilayered cultural influence, one that is subtle yet powerful.

Courtesy Of Ferrari

The show opened with relaxed tailoring, elongated dresses, and fluid shirts in shades of white ranging from buttery cream to optic, honoring the natural color of the yarns. Precision and serenity defined these pieces, with clean finishes and raw edges. Textile research played a starring role: delicate mesh knits, tailored trousers ideal for rainy days or seaside nights, and spongy leather pants paired with square bombers in oxidized or cocoa hues highlighted Iannone’s mastery of materials.

Courtesy Of Ferrari

Structured yet supple leather molded to the body, while acid-washed denim skirts and cargo pants added a casual counterpoint. Menswear featured collarless jackets and drawstring trousers, underscoring a refined versatility. More elaborate touches appeared in hand-embroidered silk pieces, where shimmering graphics formed undulating patterns across skirts and tops.

Courtesy Of Ferrari

Accessories carried the brand’s DNA forward: women’s heels crafted in canvas or woven leather, alongside handbags and belts finished with mechanical-inspired metallic details, now a distinctive Ferrari hallmark.

The Attico Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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The Attico Spring 2026 Collection

The Attico Spring 2026 Collection

Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini’s latest collection for The Attico celebrated the modern woman as untamable, complex, and full of contradictions. The show carried a film-noir aesthetic, with models navigating a labyrinth of doors accompanied by a soundtrack of static and screeching sounds that amplified a sense of sexual intrigue and mystery.

Sheer slip dresses, silk camisoles, and slim-knit pieces created dramatic silhouettes, highlighted by a mouthwatering palette of mint, chocolate, and cinnamon. Towering python platforms and stiletto heels intensified the bold, confident energy of the collection.

The Attico’s signature play on perception—nothing was quite what it seemed—was evident in oversized trench coats concealing lace bodysuits, tight lingerie, and tiny bras paired with low-cut pencil skirts. Oversized tailoring, voluminous houndstooth blazers, tuxedo styles, and executive grey suits coexisted with lace tops adorned with bows and ruffles, unbuttoned blouses, and alluring neckline details, marrying sophistication with sensuality.

While Ambrosio and Tordini aimed to showcase the many facets of the contemporary woman, at times the collection communicated more as a caricature of seduction than as a nuanced portrayal, delivering a provocative yet striking vision of female power and complexity.

Elisabetta Franchi Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Elisabetta Franchi Spring 2026 Collection

Elisabetta Franchi Spring 2026 Collection

The opulent Palazzo Acerbi in central Milan, recently acquired by Elisabetta Franchi and steeped in Baroque legends, provided the perfect stage for a show that encapsulated her uncompromising vision. The myth of the building being “protected by the devil” became a metaphor for the kind of woman Franchi celebrates: fearless, self-assured, and ready to take charge of any challenge.

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Models strode with determination through gilded halls, dressed in pieces that married functionality, sensuality, and tailoring precision. Highlights included floor-length trenches with flawless drape, sharply cut blazers with strong shoulders, low-waist skirts, and cropped capri pants, all constructed with architectural accuracy.

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Franchi blurred the lines between daywear and eveningwear with gowns that were both sensual and practical: asymmetrically cut silhouettes, second-skin jersey drapes, sheer tulles, and mesh-effect embroideries created transparency, movement, and lightness.

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Craftsmanship took center stage with fringes woven in leather and organza, flowing with sculptural rhythm, while printed satin blousons and cabans carried a raised texture reminiscent of ostrich leather, underscoring Franchi’s long-standing animal-rights activism. Accessories amplified the statement: oversized metallic cuffs and golden bangles underlined the collection’s confident message.

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

The color palette was dominated by boudoir pink, cocoa, butter, and matte black, reinforcing a mood of polished strength. Franchi also emphasized that her creations are designed without boundaries of time or occasion, empowering her clientele to wear them anywhere, at any moment.

Tod’s Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Tod’s Spring 2026 Collection

Tod’s Spring 2026 Collection

For Spring 2026, Matteo Tamburini crafted a collection that celebrated the quiet strength of natural beauty and the fleeting emotion of late summer afternoons. Inspired by Claude Nori’s book An Italian Summer, Tamburini translated the bittersweet nostalgia of the season into pieces that felt both intimate and essential — garments that adapt to the body with effortless lightness.

Courtesy Of Tod’s

The setting was just as telling: at Milan’s PAC contemporary art museum, Tod’s artisans worked live in white coats, their tools referencing the brand’s DNA. The iconic gommino pebble sole was transformed into a striking installation and reimagined as decorative perforations across ready-to-wear and accessories — most notably in the new open-toe gommino heel.

Courtesy Of Tod’s

Leather, Tod’s signature language, took center stage in square-cut oversized jackets, sleeveless mini-dresses, structured sandals, and new loafers handwoven with thick, multicolored threads. Trench coats in crisp cotton revealed tailored leather interiors, while geometric patterns on skirts and scarf tops drew inspiration from Frank Stella’s abstract works. Striped motifs — created from slim strips of colored leather sewn onto airy poplin — turned masculine shirts into playful mini-dresses.

Courtesy Of Tod’s

The collection’s color story leaned into warm, earthy shades, with saffron yellow and sunburnt tones illuminating pashmy jackets and perforated napa blazers. Accessories held equal weight, as the Wave bag appeared in fresh versions with sharp contrast stitching.

Courtesy Of Tod’s

Balancing heritage and modernity, Tamburini targeted a younger clientele without abandoning Tod’s timeless codes. His mix of craftsmanship, sensual minimalism, and contemporary flair reinforced Tod’s evolving narrative: fashion that feels as natural as it is sophisticated.

Blumarine Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Blumarine Spring 2026 Collection

Blumarine Spring 2026 Collection

For his sophomore outing at Blumarine, David Koma pushed the brand firmly into the realm of nocturnal seduction. More than just a runway show, it was an exploration of dark romanticism, where gothic literature and passionate love stories were reimagined for a summer context with both audacity and refinement.

Courtesy of Blumarine

The butterfly, long a symbol of the house, met its alter ego—the dragonfly—in a dialogue of contrasts that became the central narrative of the collection. They surfaced as prints, embroidery, appliqués, and even bold statement jewelry. Oppositions extended into the silhouettes: sharp, tailored blazers were softened with georgette panels, while ethereal gowns in tulle and transparent georgette drifted alongside precise tailoring.

Courtesy of Blumarine

The palette underscored this tension: delicate nude and blush shades collided with inky blacks and flashes of acid green. Highlights included ruched mini dresses with a coquettish spirit, airy gowns covered in butterfly motifs reinterpreted as feline spots, and cascades of ruffles paired with lace appliqués that amplified the visual drama.

Courtesy of Blumarine

With a clear focus on nighttime glamour and red-carpet appeal, the collection leaned heavily toward partywear rather than daywear. It was a clever strategy for maximum editorial impact, positioning Blumarine as an after-dark fantasy brand—though the question remains whether Koma will continue to nurture the daylight muses of the house in seasons to come.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Roberto Cavalli Spring 2026 Collection

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2026 Collection

Fausto Puglisi turned the runway into a full homage to gold, reimagining the precious metal in unexpected ways. This season, Cavalli’s usual riot of colorful prints gave way to a monochromatic universe shimmering with sensuality and opulence. Shades of gold ranged from soft pearly glimmers to bold metallic foils, creating a collection that felt both modern and timeless.

Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

The show opened with a pleated lamé gown paired with flat sandals featuring delicate snake details, before moving into a sequence that shifted between regal and playful. Standout looks included gowns drenched in rose-gold sequins, silhouettes adorned with gilded laurel leaves, dresses that seemed spray-painted in metallic hues, and stone-washed denim spliced with python inserts for an unexpected urban twist. Oversized jacquard jackets embroidered with metallic threads added a note of laid-back sophistication.

Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

Puglisi drew inspiration from an eclectic pantheon of icons —Cleopatra’s Egyptian splendor, Elizabeth Taylor’s Hollywood glamour, and Jane Birkin’s effortless chic— weaving a narrative that married ancient allure with festive modernity. “Gold is often in-your-face, but I wanted it to be strong with a gentle touch,” the designer explained, emphasizing his desire to capture escapism and joy.

Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

The finale came in the form of an airy princess-like gown in muted gold tinged with silver, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of the collection. Alongside these red-carpet stunners were more casual propositions: sheer embroidered T-shirt dresses, transparent slip-on styles, and corseted slips that shimmered against the golden runway. With this lineup, Puglisi reaffirmed Cavalli’s essence —clothes designed for women who want to feel powerful, beautiful, and ready to celebrate, whether day or night.

MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2026 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2026 Collection

MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2026 Collection

Instead of a traditional runway, MM6 Maison Margiela staged its Spring 2026 show on a white-painted sidewalk against the backdrop of a pale yellow Milanese building. The setting, both ordinary and theatrical, reinforced the house’s theme of transforming the everyday into something extraordinary. Guests later gathered at the nearby Via della Spiga, where the brand’s flagship store has been temporarily reimagined with walls and fixtures constructed from hardback books painted in black and white — a continuation of the collection’s playful sense of deconstruction.

Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela

The design collective behind MM6 described their starting point as “extreme normality”: the people you might pass on your street, reframed through Margiela’s lens of irony and experimentation. This translated into distressed leather jackets, crisp camp shirts, and swing coats and dresses with a distinctly Sixties spirit, all styled with a sense of sharp coolness.

Yet what truly set the collection apart were the visual tricks and unexpected materials. Illusion tulle suggested sweaters and trench coats suspended in mid-air, appearing to float without shoulders or sleeves. Men’s shirting and trousers in paper-textured fabrics were punctured with deliberate perforations, while some women’s outerwear and tunics seemed cut directly from garment bags, nodding to the brand’s tradition of subverting function into fashion.

Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela

The color palette marked a bold shift for MM6: think Barbie pink, sky blue, burnt orange, and lime green, shades that brought a vibrant freshness to silhouettes with subtle retro references. Accessories extended this energy — satin fanny packs, secondhand-shop hues, and loafers cleverly reworked into low-heeled mules added a playful street-culture edge.

Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela

While the womenswear emphasized floating dresses, layered tailoring, and unexpected textures, the menswear came across as particularly strong this season, offering looks that could appeal equally to nonconformists, beach lovers, and those who prefer understated rebellion. And, of course, there was a signature Margiela wink: oversized sunglasses with black censor bars across the eyes — a reminder of the brand’s identity as much as a commentary on anonymity.

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