On Thursday, Gucci announced the end of its collaboration with Sabato De Sarno, who had been serving as the brand’s creative director. The upcoming Fall fashion show, scheduled for February 25 in Milan, will be presented by Gucci’s in-house design team, while a new artistic director will be announced in due course.
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Gucci’s CEO, Stefano Cantino, expressed his gratitude to De Sarno for his passion and dedication, acknowledging the designer’s commitment to honoring the brand’s craftsmanship and heritage. Francesca Bellettini, Deputy CEO of Kering, praised De Sarno’s loyalty and professionalism, highlighting the foundational work he accomplished, which will serve as the basis for the new artistic direction moving forward.
De Sarno’s departure comes during a challenging period for Gucci, as the brand has faced declining revenues and mixed reviews of its recent collections. In the third quarter, Gucci’s organic sales dropped by 25%, surpassing analysts’ expectations of a 21% decrease. In response, the Italian fashion house is focusing on a renewal strategy, which includes the launch of new handbag lines, essential pieces based on De Sarno’s most successful designs, and optimized distribution and shorter turnaround times.
Marc Jacobs unofficially kicked off New York Fashion Week with his Spring 2025 collection, presented at the New York Public Library. Titled “Courage,” the show was accompanied by a manifesto placed on each seat, in which the designer reflected on fear—not as an obstacle, but as an essential force driving creativity, authenticity, and artistic expression.
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His signature approach to exaggerated proportions and visual drama was evident in pieces that transformed the ordinary into the extraordinary. Jacobs reinterpreted classic garments with an unexpected twist: corduroy trousers inspired by 18th-century silhouettes, oversized padded trench coats, and sculptural pencil skirts in British heritage checks. His iconic quilted tailoring also played a prominent role in the collection.
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The show emphasized the idea that personal style transcends trends, with designs that evoked a sense of fantasy: oversized nightgowns with fairytale-like allure, chenille sweaters paired with bubble leather miniskirts, and sculptural dresses adorned with giant sequins and rich, velvety hues. While certain elements echoed the work of Comme des Garçons, Jacobs infused each piece with his unmistakable signature.
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Accessories played a key role in the visual narrative: surreal pointed-toe shoes and unfinished leather handbags added a playful and theatrical dimension. Among the many references the collection evoked, attendees found hints of Betty Boop, the Queen of Hearts, and Marie Antoinette, showcasing how each viewer could interpret Jacobs’ vision in their own way.
With this collection, the designer reaffirms his position as a master of spectacle and fashion innovation, pushing boundaries with uninhibited creativity. More than just garments, Jacobs presented a bold statement on creative freedom, further solidifying his status as one of the industry’s most influential visionaries.
Kim Jones Bids Farewell to Dior After Seven Years Redefining Men’s Fashion
After seven years leading Dior’s menswear collections, Kim Jones is stepping down as artistic director. The French fashion house expressed its gratitude, highlighting his role in expanding the global influence of Dior’s menswear line and his ability to merge classic tailoring with contemporary aesthetics through innovative artistic collaborations.
Dior’s Kim Jones Awarded Legion of Honor: Inside the Ceremony
The announcement comes just a week after Jones unveiled Dior’s Fall 2025 menswear collection in a minimalist setting of grand white staircases and was honored with the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian distinction. Dior has yet to name his successor, though speculation points to Jonathan Anderson, the current creative director of Loewe, as a strong contender for the role.
Jones, who previously led Louis Vuitton’s menswear division and recently stepped down from his position at Fendi, has established himself as one of the most influential designers in the industry. His vision—blending luxury, functionality, and cultural references—has left a lasting impact on Dior. Now, the house must chart a new course for its menswear line in this next chapter.
On January 29, Ludovic de Saint Sernin unveiled his bold and sensual vision for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2025 Couture collection, presenting a runway that not only paid tribute to the brand’s maritime DNA but reinvented it into a visual narrative filled with emotion, sensuality, and theatricality. Drawing inspiration from the French word naufrage (shipwreck), the collection unfolded as a journey into the unknown, populated with sailors and muses navigating a sea of passions and adventures.
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From the start, the atmosphere of the show captivated with its unsettling energy. On the darkened runway of Jean Paul Gaultier’s iconic Parisian headquarters, models paraded with an unmistakable sense of confidence and sensuality, wearing garments that oozed luxury and desire. Corsets with tight lacing and form-fitting dresses that showcased a combination of skin and tulle created the illusion of castaways emerging from the depths of the ocean. One of the standout pieces was a tulle dress adorned with 50,000 brass pearls, glowing like the light of a distant moon—representing both the fragility and beauty of a shipwreck.
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Ludovic de Saint Sernin was the latest guest designer to reinterpret Jean Paul Gaultier’s Couture line, following in the footsteps of Simone Rocha and Julien Dossena. Throughout the show, the brand’s maritime inspiration was reimagined as a canvas for experimentation and innovation. Saint Sernin brought to life the figures of sailors, sirens, and pirates in a way that seamlessly blended the classic with the contemporary, not only reflecting Gaultier’s essence but also offering his own fresh, provocative perspective.
One of the most memorable moments of the collection was the tribute to Gaultier’s iconic 1997 design, where a model wore a boat on her head. Saint Sernin revived that piece as part of his own narrative, describing it as a visual journey of love, chaos, and discovery. In his version, the muses and sailors embark on an adventure filled with passions and entanglements, only to lose control of the ship and be cast ashore. On the runway, this narrative became a powerful visual metaphor, expressed in every piece that graced the catwalk.
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Saint Sernin incorporated very specific details to emphasize the connection between the human body and the sea. The dresses, with their seductive and body-hugging shapes, seemed to glide across the runway like ocean waves, while the movement of the pleated chiffon fabric evoked the sensation of waves crashing against rocks. The use of innovative materials, such as specially treated feathers that appeared wet and latex prints mimicking crocodile skin, added a striking visual dimension.
Some of the most notable looks included a burgundy mermaid skirt paired with a top made from brass wire, spelling out naufrage in cursive, taking the idea of shipwreck to a symbolic level. References to popular culture and archival fashion were also present, such as a nod to the iconic black-and-white photograph of Cindy Crawford by Herb Ritts, in which the supermodel was draped in a towel. Saint Sernin used this image as a metaphor for sensuality and vulnerability, elements that were reflected in his designs.
Each piece in the collection told its own story, not only through the fabrics and cuts but also in the narrative construction. Saint Sernin revealed that every look was part of a visual script, where characters and plots developed as the muses walked the runway. This was reflected in the dramatic silhouettes and elaborate embellishments, such as the use of metallic eyelets resembling anchors, and designs where the cuts and embroidery seemed to tell the tale of a journey through human emotions, love, and loss.
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The front row was left speechless by the boldness and sensuality of the looks. The dresses and corsets stood out with their surprising structures and meticulous detailing, creating a fascinating contrast with the artisanal techniques Saint Sernin mastered. With his debut for Gaultier, the designer not only presented a Couture collection but also offered a new perspective on the art of storytelling through fashion.
With this collection, Ludovic de Saint Sernin made it clear that, under his eye, Haute Couture is not just about creating clothing, but about crafting a narrative universe where each piece plays its part in a story of emotions, power, and beauty.
Alessandro Michele made his highly anticipated debut in Valentino’s haute couture with a collection that merged the house’s rich history with his own maximalist and dreamlike approach. Titled Vertigineux, the presentation unfolded as a tapestry of cultural references, masterful craftsmanship, and theatricality—an ode to past grandeur, reimagined through a contemporary lens.
From the very first moment, the show felt like a deep dive into Michele’s creative mind. Each guest found an extensive dossier on their seat, filled with notes detailing the flood of inspirations behind every piece. At the back of the runway, glowing red digital letters projected a “river” of references: medieval nuns, Marie Antoinette, Venetian carnivals, silent film stars, and the lavish court fashion of the Georgian era. Filtered through Michele’s vision, these historical elements took shape in garments that challenged traditional haute couture aesthetics.
Valentino’s legendary craftsmanship reached new heights with this collection. Each design appeared as a work of art, built upon layers of history and executed with impeccable precision. The silhouettes, at times exaggerated and theatrical, paid homage to past eras while maintaining a modern fluidity.
Crinoline gowns with harlequin-patterned tulle evoked a sense of carnival fantasy, while pannier skirts and tightly fitted bodices recalled the structured elegance of the 18th century. Billowing ruffles, voluminous sleeves, and oversized bows echoed Victorian romanticism but with a contemporary twist.
Michele revived Valentino’s signature techniques, from micro-pleated trumpet sleeves and intricate lattice embroidery adorned with gemstones to delicate floral prints inspired by 19th-century chintz textiles. Structured, almost architectural details created a striking contrast against the lightness of chiffon, lace, and organza.
One of the most striking moments came with a dark taffeta gown featuring a black velvet bodice—seemingly simple, yet requiring 860 hours of meticulous handwork. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Valentino’s iconic red made a powerful statement in a voluminous, ruffled gown, a direct nod to the house’s founder, Valentino Garavani.
The show was not just about showcasing a collection; it was designed to induce a sense of vertigo, an overwhelming sensory experience. From the seating arrangement—where fashion editors were placed in the fifth row, behind couture clients and celebrities—to the atmospheric soundscape, every element was carefully curated to immerse the audience in Vertigineux.
The soundtrack, a fusion of Oxford Camerata’s chamber choir and the ethereal electronic compositions of Alva Noto, added a mystical aura to the event. And in a dramatic finale, Michele sent his models striding through bursts of wind and flashing strobe lights as Prokofiev’s Dance of the Knights echoed through the venue. With each commanding step, the monumental silhouettes took on a cinematic presence, as if they were heroines from a gothic novel.
Michele made it clear that his vision for haute couture goes beyond the mere creation of garments—it is a reflection on fashion in an era dominated by digital immediacy. “Today, everything is about scrolling, consuming images in seconds. But haute couture is not that. It demands time, presence, and emotion,” the designer explained.
At a moment when the industry leans towards minimalism and practicality, Michele embraces opulence and storytelling. His Valentino is not just about wearing fashion—it is about experiencing it. With Vertigineux, the designer does more than reinterpret the house’s legacy; he lays the foundation for a new era of haute couture, where opulence, art, and history intertwine through the lens of the 21st century.
In the majestic Palais de Tokyo, Elie Saab transported his audience to a world of ethereal luxury with his latest haute couture collection. Set against the soothing sounds of flowing streams and birdsong, the runway became a dreamlike stage where the designer’s signature opulence took on a new dimension. This season, Saab merged his mastery of embroidery and vision of femininity with a more defined, almost architectural structure. Inspired by the elegance of Art Deco, he played with sculptural volumes at the shoulders and hips, striking a balance between drama and sophistication.
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Models walked through a runway framed by classic white arches, wearing dazzling creations adorned with intricate beading and delicate embroidered feathers, evoking the beauty of nature. The collection felt like a journey into the glamour of the 1920s, with cinematic references to Gatsby-era decadence, reinterpreted through Saab’s refined modern lens. His ability to sculpt the silhouette was evident in every look, where flowing fabrics and structured cuts harmonized effortlessly. From romantic organza gowns in soft pastels to unexpected deep blue denim evening dresses with visible yellow topstitching, the designer surprised with a collection that blended sophistication and fantasy.
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In contrast, Franck Sorbier took haute couture to a more conceptual and artistic level with his collection Sinfonía Bárbara, a reflection on the duality between war and peace. As is customary in his work, the French designer combined fashion, music, and dance in a presentation where visual storytelling played a central role. The show opened with figures dressed in dark, dramatic attire, accompanied by a striking musical score, before transitioning to a scene where the “warriors of peace” emerged in trapeze-cut dresses adorned with sequins and fringe in subdued tones like navy and gray.
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The climax of the collection came with the representation of peace, symbolized by neoclassical-inspired gowns crafted in chiffon and satin, in a palette of soft and ethereal hues. To close the show, soprano Catherine Trottman and a ballerina from the Paris Opera added a poetic and emotional dimension to the presentation. As a final gesture, young girls distributed olive branches to the guests, a powerful symbol of harmony and reconciliation.
While Saab reaffirmed his status as the master of glamour and femininity through his grandiose interpretation of haute couture, Sorbier explored fashion as a medium for artistic and social expression. Two distinct approaches, both equally compelling, proving that haute couture has the power to move, inspire, and tell stories that go far beyond craftsmanship.
Armani Privé Spring 2025: Two Decades of Haute Couture
To celebrate 20 years of his haute couture line, Giorgio Armani stepped onto the runway, arm in arm with a model, offering warm smiles and heartfelt waves to his audience. At 90, the designer’s choice to personally acknowledge his guests in such an emotional setting was a poignant expression of gratitude for those who have stood by him throughout his couture journey.
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This season’s collection, aptly titled Lumières, was a poetic homage to light—its reflections, movements, and the way it enhances fabric. Armani envisioned a sophisticated, well-traveled woman, whose wardrobe reflects the essence of the places she’s explored. The structured elegance of Japan, the richness of India, the artistry of North Africa, and the soft watercolor shades of Polynesian landscapes all came together with an airy, almost imperceptible grace—like fleeting strokes of light across a canvas.
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As expected from the house, embellishments played a central role. Tailored cropped jackets, ethereal gowns, structured coats, and evening clutches gleamed with crystal accents in deep blue, bronze, and amaranth hues. Fluidity defined the trousers, a quintessential Armani element, while backless gowns, strapless silhouettes, and exquisitely embroidered skirts and vests elevated the collection’s refinement. Completing the vision, sequined headpieces sat atop sleek, fan-shaped hairstyles, subtly enhancing the muted lavender-gray eye makeup.
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For Armani, haute couture is an arena for artistic exploration—a space where he steps beyond his signature minimalism to embrace a more experimental and expressive aesthetic. Unlike his debut Privé collection, where bias-cut simplicity sharply contrasted the grandeur of Parisian couture, this season was a radiant tribute to texture, embellishment, and movement. Across 93 looks, satin finishes, embroidered mesh layers, and sinuous sequin patterns played with the illusion of light.
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Yet, despite this heightened opulence, Armani stayed true to his identity: the master of effortless sophistication and the pioneer of the chic, understated trouser suit. This season, pants took on fresh interpretations—high-waisted and pleated, gently ballooned, cinched at the ankles, or paired with flowing tunics and sheer dusters. Some looks were styled with pagoda-sleeved cropped jackets, while others featured lightweight vests, all exuding an air of refined ease.
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As light transcends time and space, Armani translated its fleeting beauty into fabric, shaping a wardrobe for the contemporary woman—one who carries the essence of her travels with her, wearing each memory as a luminous echo of her journey.
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Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Spring 2025: Art, Movement, and Philanthropy
For Spring 2025, Stéphane Rolland infused his haute couture collection with deep meaning, blending artistry with philanthropy. Partnering with the Fondation des Hôpitaux, he and his longtime collaborator, Pierre Martinez, launched an initiative to support at-risk teenagers. A portion of the tickets for his show at Salle Pleyel was made available to the public, with all proceeds benefiting the foundation. Since September 2024, the duo has also been hosting creative workshops for young girls, helping them explore new perspectives and artistic possibilities.
This season’s collection drew inspiration from two legendary figures: the sculptural brilliance of Brancusi and the timeless influence of Josephine Baker. Baker—dancer, singer, and humanitarian—became Rolland’s muse, not only for her artistic legacy but for her dedication to unity, peace, and inclusivity. Her voice echoed throughout the show, reinforcing these themes.
Rolland translated these influences into meticulously structured gowns and jumpsuits, where bold shapes met fluid motion. With a restrained yet striking palette of black, ivory, white, brown, and silver, his designs featured sculpted shoulders, lavish draping, and geometric accents. Strength and elegance intertwined, capturing both Baker’s dynamic energy and Brancusi’s mastery of form.
Key pieces included a black velvet and gazar draped jacket paired with a sleek satin crepe sarong skirt, as well as a brown chiffon tunic enriched with ebony organza, oud, and crystal embroidery. Feathers, rather than being theatrical, were seamlessly woven into the designs—such as a flowing white gown adorned with organza leaves and delicate ivory feather fringes, exuding sophistication.
Rolland also introduced a jewelry collection that mirrored the sculptural essence of his garments. Bracelets, rings, and sautoirs were set with synthetic diamonds and zircon squares, adding a modern yet timeless allure. Meanwhile, hairstylists Björn Axén and Johan Hellström crafted intricate updos that extended the collection’s artistic vision—reinterpreting Baker’s iconic headpieces into futuristic, cross-cultural statements.
Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2025: A Harmony of Heritage and Modernity
Once again, the Grand Palais in Paris set the stage for Chanel’s Haute Couture show, presenting a Spring-Summer 2025 collection that honored the maison’s 110-year history with a fresh and youthful approach. In this transitional moment between Virginie Viard and Matthieu Blazy, the house embraced designs that embodied the essence of spring, skillfully blending tradition with modern innovation.
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Pastels dominated the collection’s color palette, bringing a sense of vitality and optimism. Shades like mint green, fondant pink, coral, and yellow lit up the runway, showcased in pieces such as hand-painted iridescent jackets and airy A-line skirts. The iconic Chanel tweed suit, a timeless symbol of the brand, was reimagined with contemporary touches: short skirts paired with tailored jackets, Coco-style cardigans, and long coats lined with emerald green satin. This reinterpretation of the 1960s classic successfully resonated with a new generation of elegant and sophisticated women.
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Eveningwear reflected Chanel’s mastery of craftsmanship without compromising the collection’s effortless lightness. Intricate embroidery, delicate feathers, and exquisite fabrics were featured in pieces like long yellow satin shirtdresses, lightweight capes, and form-fitting silver lamé dresses, achieving a refined yet modern aesthetic.
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Rather than delivering a dramatic seasonal theme, the collection focused on timelessness and wearability, offering a versatile and elegant wardrobe designed to meet the needs of today’s women. Drawing inspiration from spring, the designs evoked the renewal of nature, combining simplicity, delicacy, and sophistication.
With this collection, Chanel reaffirms its leadership in haute couture, blending the savoir-faire of Rue Cambon with the impeccable artistry of the 19M ateliers. This is a tribute to the maison’s enduring legacy, which remains as relevant as ever while confidently looking toward the future.
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Giambattista Valli Spring Couture 2025: A Tribute to Moroccan Elegance
Giambattista Valli’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture collection, Les Jardins de la Ménara, served as a heartfelt homage to Morocco, a country deeply intertwined with the designer’s personal and creative world. Drawing inspiration from the serene gardens of Marrakech and cherished memories of peaceful walks with his late friend Lee Radziwill, Valli infused this collection with a sense of calm and refined beauty.
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The runway, adorned with a Moroccan carpet, set the stage for a collection that felt like an enchanting promenade. Silk taffeta skirts, reminiscent of djellabas dancing in the breeze, cascaded elegantly from structured bodices. Hand-pleated chiffon layers were adorned with soft ombré petals, while Mughal roses embroidered on brocade capes added a touch of opulence. The designs balanced playful, voluminous silhouettes with sleek column dresses in vivid and icy tones, reflecting Valli’s signature romanticism.
A highlight of the show was a shell-pink flowing tunic exuding 1960s sophistication—a perfect nod to Radziwill, who famously favored the shade. Blending youthful charm with timeless elegance, the collection radiated optimism and celebrated beauty as an antidote to the turbulence of today’s world.
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