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A Fashion Dynasty Evolves: Donatella Versace Passes the Baton

Sarah Mitchell
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A Fashion Dynasty Evolves: Donatella Versace Passes the Baton

A Fashion Dynasty Evolves: Donatella Versace Passes the Baton

After nearly three decades at the helm of the iconic Italian house, Donatella Versace is stepping down from the creative direction of the brand she helped elevate to the pinnacle of luxury. Starting April 1, Dario Vitale will take over the role, marking a historic transition for the fashion house founded in 1978 by Gianni and Santo Versace.

Since the passing of her brother Gianni in 1997, Donatella has been instrumental in shaping the brand, seamlessly blending luxury with street-style influences and a deep understanding of pop culture. Her leadership has extended beyond design, making her one of fashion’s most influential figures, not only for her impact on the industry but also for her strong presence on social media. Moving forward, she will take on a new role as the brand’s ambassador.

Donatella Versace for Versace Fall/Winter 2025. Getty Images.

This leadership change comes at a pivotal moment for Versace. In 2018, the brand was acquired by Capri Holdings in a $2.1 billion deal. Currently, Prada Group is in exclusive negotiations to acquire Capri, a move that could redefine Versace’s strategic future.

Beyond prêt-à-porter and haute couture, Donatella has been the driving force behind Versace’s expansion into lifestyle categories, overseeing its successful Versace Home line, as well as jewelry, watches, fragrances, interior design, and the development of Palazzo Versace hotels in Australia, Dubai, and Macau.

With Dario Vitale now at the helm, the house enters a new chapter—one that preserves its signature glamour and boldness while embracing a fresh vision. The fashion industry watches closely as Versace embarks on this next phase, eager to see what the future holds.

Saint Laurent Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Saint Laurent Fall 2025 Collection

Saint Laurent Fall 2025 Collection

Beneath the imposing Eiffel Tower, on the final night of Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent reaffirmed its leadership with a precise, bold, and characterful collection. Anthony Vaccarello, with his mastery of cut and construction, presented a show that captured the avant-garde spirit and timeless elegance of the house. The runway, framed by digital brown marble walls, served as a backdrop for a series of looks that balanced structure and fluidity. From the front row, where Austin Butler, Zoë Kravitz, Kid Cudi, and Charli XCX stood, one could feel the energy of a collection that defined the Saint Laurent woman with confidence and vitality.

The starting point was a silhouette that narrowed towards the bottom after a bold start at the shoulders, evoking an inverted triangle. Ribbon dresses with high collars, sharp-shouldered bomber jackets, and pencil skirts were paired with pointy stilettos and oversized sunglasses, projecting power and sophistication. The vibrant color palette played a key role, with shades such as fuchsia, coral, amethyst, citrine, emerald, terracotta, and olive standing out on the runway. Vaccarello revisited Saint Laurent’s haute couture references from the 1990s, a period once underrated but now masterfully revalued. Narrow skirts and blouses with back ties reaffirmed the house’s essence, while the complete absence of trousers clearly emphasized the focus on structured and sophisticated femininity.

The collection’s narrative shifted as night fell: voluminous floor-length skirts were paired with silk and lace camisoles, while classic leather bomber jackets provided an unexpected touch. Black, the house’s signature color, fused with tan and brown tones, achieving a flawless blend of classic and contemporary. The accessories reinforced the message: dark sunglasses, dramatic leather gloves, sculpted gold earrings, and slingbacks with curved heels. In a world where runways are increasingly commercialized, the complete absence of handbags made it clear that Vaccarello prefers to let the clothes speak for themselves.

Beyond the impeccable aesthetic execution, this collection was an exercise in creative honesty. Vaccarello demonstrated his commitment to fashion as an emotional and artistic expression, without commercial concessions or unnecessary artifice. And although he hinted at his interest in haute couture, he was adamant that what was shown in Paris was not. “If you want to do haute couture, do it. But do I want to do it? Well, yes, I’m thinking about it,” he confessed. With this collection, Saint Laurent and Vaccarello not only reaffirmed their vision of contemporary luxury, but also demonstrated that fashion, when it is authentic, needs no superfluous embellishments. It is power, it is emotion, and, above all, it is attitude.

Chanel Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Chanel Fall 2025 Collection

Chanel Fall 2025 Collection

On the Chanel runway, symbols are never mere embellishments; they are statements of intent. For the Fall-Winter 2025/26 Ready-to-Wear show, the house transformed the Grand Palais in Paris into a monumental stage, with an imposing black ribbon ascending from the heart of the runway. A bold gesture that paid homage to one of the house’s most beloved codes: the bow. As the fashion world eagerly awaits the arrival of Matthieu Blazy as its new creative director, the Chanel Creation Studio delivered a collection that celebrated the lightness of flou without forgetting the precision of its iconic bouclé tailoring.

Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images

Romanticism in motion was hinted at from the invitations, where a black ribbon and an enigmatic phrase—”Tied, loose, or flowing in the wind, the Chanel bow unfolds a moving charm”—offered a clue to the show’s narrative. Upon arrival, guests, entranced by the house’s atmosphere, wandered among undulating ribbon sculptures while wearing tweed suits, with Lemarié bows tied in their hair, around their necks, or on their bag straps.

Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images

On the runway, Chanel wove an exquisite dialogue between the structured and the ethereal. The collection opened with nine tailored looks combining fitted jackets with flowing chiffon layers, illusion tulle skirts, and puff-sleeved blouses. As the show progressed, a blazer dress revealed a white blouse with voluminous sleeves and a ruffled high collar, an unmistakable nod to Karl Lagerfeld’s signature. The tweed ensembles, in their most feminine and enveloping form, were embellished with ruffles at the collars and cuffs, lending a lighter and more romantic air.

Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images

The collection not only reimagined classic tailoring but also explored new realms of fluidity and movement. High-shine trench coats, reminiscent of a cross between Blade Runner and Belle de Jour, coexisted with reinvented versions of the three-piece suit. A structured waistcoat paired with a layered maxi and miniskirt brought dynamism and versatility, while chiffon jeans, floating with the lightness of a jellyfish, broke the rigidity of traditional codes.

Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images

The balance between modernity and tradition was also reflected in the music: a soundtrack that combined electronic rhythms with classical strings, underscoring the timeless essence of the house. Chanel, once again, made it clear that its legacy is not static, but a continuous exercise in reinvention. A collection that reaffirms the power of the bow not only as an adornment, but as an emblem of femininity, movement, and eternal elegance.

Louis Vuitton Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Louis Vuitton Fall 2025 Collection

Louis Vuitton Fall 2025 Collection

Travel has always been a central theme in Louis Vuitton’s narrative, and for the Fall-Winter 2025/26 season, Nicolas Ghesquière explores its symbolism with a collection that merges railway romance, cinematic references, and a futuristic vision. Presented at L’Étoile du Nord, a hidden train station steeped in 19th-century travel nostalgia, the show unfolded as an ode to movement and the emotions stirred by departures and reunions.

The fluid silhouettes reflected the rhythm of travel: structured yet weightless wool coats, paired with accessories that paid homage to the house’s heritage, such as the iconic Keepall, reimagined in soft pastels and refined lines. The debut of the “L’Express” bag, blending nostalgia with contemporary allure, reaffirmed Ghesquière’s mastery in reinventing Vuitton’s legacy.

Yet, this collection was far from just a retrospective. Ghesquière, always with a forward-thinking approach, infused his designs with elements of gorpcore aesthetics and the electronic music of Kraftwerk, whose album Trans-Europe Express influenced both the show’s soundtrack and several graphic motifs. The result was an exquisite juxtaposition of metallic Victorian-inspired ruffles, baroque jacquards, fur coats with silver accents, and sneakers with architectural lines.

Spanning 60 looks, the collection showcased a cast of travelers in motion: from flight attendants in 1980s-inspired uniforms to urban explorers in cargo shorts and oversized New Wave sweaters. The layering of textures and silhouettes evoked the spontaneity of travel: translucent vinyl-effect trench coats, floral slip dresses, and plaid blankets reinterpreted in a ready-to-wear context. Some models appeared wrapped in shawl-like blankets, while others carried hatboxes and vintage-inspired trunks in 1950s hues, reinforcing the themes of movement and nostalgia.

With nearly 12 years at the helm of Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière continues to evolve his vision while staying true to the house’s DNA. His message is clear: fashion is the ultimate vehicle for adventure, and Louis Vuitton remains at the forefront of the journey.

Zimmermann Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Zimmermann Fall 2025 Collection

Zimmermann Fall 2025 Collection

Nicky Zimmermann has always been able to capture the essence of femininity through an ethereal lens, but this season her inspiration comes from a cinematic reference with an unmistakable mystical aura. Picnic at Hanging Rock, the iconic Australian film that turns 50, serves as the backdrop for a collection that doesn’t seek to replicate her wardrobe, but rather translate her atmosphere into garments that float between the tangible and the dreamlike.

Titled “Hypnotic,” the collection is an exercise in duality: the transition from carefree childhood to enlightened femininity, represented in ruffles that morph into structured denim and impeccably crafted leather. Love letter appliqués and modernized aprons evoke a sweet nostalgia, while lingerie-inspired lace transitions into dramatic dresses and robes that suggest a delicate yet firm sensuality.

Zimmermann stays true to her signature romanticism, but takes it a step further, playing with an almost spectral, enveloping aesthetic. In contrast to the dark and subversive romanticism of Alexander McQueen, the Australian label offers a more fragile and ethereal vision, giving the contemporary woman the possibility to choose which side of romance she wants to embody this season.

The trend towards escapism, nostalgia and the spiritual continues to rise, and Zimmermann, with its innate mastery of refined boho-chic, is at the forefront of this narrative. In times where fashion oscillates between rawness and dreaminess, the brand bets on the spell of the sublime, offering its client a dream refuge in each garment.

Sacai Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Sacai Fall 2025 Collection

Sacai Fall 2025 Collection

In her Fall 2025 collection, Chitose Abe reaffirms her ability to fuse the conceptual with the commercial, exploring gesture in fashion with a unique sensibility. Through enveloping layers and unexpected contrasts, she transforms everyday garments into pieces that convey strength, protection and vulnerability.

Military jackets, structured blazers and down parkas are reinvented by integrating them with fringed knit panels or chiffon and silk scarves fused with blazers, creating a sense of elegant comfort. Abe resorts to structures that envelop the body as if embracing it, accentuating the emotional dimension of clothing.

The collection surprises with embellishments in unexpected places: sequins sprouting from cargo pants, fake feathers covering anoraks and faux fur details on knit dresses and flat shoes. In an artistic approach, Abe incorporates Man Ray’s iconic eyes and lips into leather minidresses, shirts and T-shirts, pieces that are shaping up to be collector’s items. “He captured the beauty of women with stories of their own,” Abe said, highlighting his vision of fashion as a reflection of female identity.

Sacai’s signature nylon parka returns in a design that falls over the shoulders as if hugging the body, while vests with front closures, skorts with side zippers and bias-cut leather skirts bring a sporty and avant-garde aesthetic.

Once again, Abe redefines the codes of fashion with a proposal that invites us to reinterpret the classics, opening up new possibilities for self-expression through clothing.

Balenciaga Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Balenciaga Fall 2025 Collection

Balenciaga Fall 2025 Collection

At the Cour du Dôme des Invalides, Demna presented a collection that reaffirmed his mastery of Balenciaga’s aesthetic language: an exploration of deconstructed tailoring, urban luxury and aesthetic provocation. With a more introspective and minimalist approach to the presentation, the designer transported attendees to a monochromatic and intimate space, where the focus was exclusively on the garments and their construction.

From the first looks, it was clear that playing with traditional dress codes would be the axis of the collection. Tailored suits—some impeccable, others intentionally wrinkled or perforated—opened the show with a dose of irony, accompanied by briefcases and ties that evoked corporate formality. Then, rigidity gave way to casualness: sports suits in collaboration with Puma, extra-long sweatshirts that grazed the floor and monumental faux-fur coats.

The evening also had its moment with transparencies embroidered with rhinestones, silk dresses that glided languidly and dizzying stilettos, combinations that blurred the line between streetwear and haute couture. A large electric red coat with an enormous black belt broke with the dominant sobriety, while anoraks with voluminous hoods and oversized quilted jackets reaffirmed the experimental nature of the proposal.

Beyond aesthetics, Demna opted for a fashion focused on durability and craftsmanship, moving away from theatricality in favor of impeccable cut and timeless design. With this collection, Balenciaga not only challenges the codes of contemporary luxury, but also reinterprets fashion as an intellectual exercise, where the imperfect and the impeccable coexist in a fascinating balance.

Valentino Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Valentino Fall 2025 Collection

Valentino Fall 2025 Collection

For his second Valentino ready-to-wear show, Alessandro Michele turned the catwalk into an unexpected setting: a public bathroom bathed in red light, a dystopian space evoking the cinema of David Lynch and the transgression of clandestine glamour. The collection explored the performative nature of intimacy, in a world where fashion and self-image have been absorbed by the digital age.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images

Models emerged from cubicles with a perfectly calculated air of carelessness: cut-out bustiers, relaxed tweed trousers and unbuttoned lace jumpsuits that challenged the norms of provocation and elegance. Tailoring took on a contemporary edge with faux-fur jackets, V-neck sweaters and high-waisted 70s-style jeans, pieces that could be found on Parisian street style as well as at late-night dinners at Caviar Kaspia.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images

But Michele did not abandon the opulent drama that defines Valentino. In the collection, evening dresses took monumental forms: structured gold ruffles, layers of lamé and a striking design in lilac and chartreuse tones with a majestic vintage lace train. In contrast, all-black looks, such as a velvet dress with a plunging neckline, brought timeless sophistication.

In menswear, the designer revisited Valentino’s codes, reinterpreting elegance with suit jackets paired with bow blouses and subtle sensuality in sheer tops, a nostalgic nod to his debut at Gucci in 2015.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images

Michele continues to blur the boundaries between the classic and the irreverent, between the intimate and the exhibitionist. With this collection, he demonstrates that fashion is a game of contrasts, where excess mixes with the mundane and opulence finds its place in the unexpected. In his vision, even a bathroom becomes a haute couture stage.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Alexander McQueen Fall 2025 Collection

Alexander McQueen Fall 2025 Collection

In his highly anticipated debut for Alexander McQueen, Seán McGirr drew inspiration from Victorian dandyism, stripping it of its rigidity and infusing it with a fiercely contemporary rebellion. Inspired by iconic figures like Oscar Wilde and Vesta Tilley, the designer reimagined adornment as an act of provocation and self-expression, blurring the boundaries of masculine and feminine dress.

McGirr crafted a narrative where gothic drama meets exquisite tailoring, striking a balance between opulence and austerity, structure and fluidity. Delicate lace and flowing silks were juxtaposed with rigid wools and commanding jacquards, while gold embroidery shimmered across capes and jackets, evoking 19th-century grandeur. Philip Treacy’s sculptural hats, inspired by Wilde’s signature gentleman’s hat, added an element of theatricality and intrigue.

But it wasn’t all dark and moody. McGirr injected unexpected bursts of hallucinatory color: a vibrant red ensemble with sculpted faux-fur sleeves wrapped around the model like an haute couture embrace of power. On the other end of the spectrum, a structured violet jacket, paired with a ruffled skirt and fishnet stockings, bridged the gap between dandy sophistication and contemporary irreverence.

McGirr’s flâneurs, seemingly plucked from a modernized adaptation of The Picture of Dorian Gray (1973), glided down the runway in flowing silk dresses with ruffles and sharply structured coats. Tailoring wasn’t confined to tradition—the same sports jacket transformed into a corseted silhouette for women or a more relaxed cut for men, blurring gender lines and challenging conventional dress codes.

With this first collection for Alexander McQueen, Seán McGirr makes his vision clear: dandyism is alive and well, and in its modern iteration, it is as radical and provocative as ever.

Elie Saab Fall 2025 Collection

Sarah Mitchell
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Elie Saab Fall 2025 Collection

Elie Saab Fall 2025 Collection

Elie Saab elevates winter luxury with his Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 25-26 collection, a tribute to the effortless glamour of the world’s most exclusive mountain resorts. Seamlessly transitioning between city salons and snow-covered peaks, the collection balances sumptuous textures, exaggerated silhouettes, and a palette of rich, burnished hues, capturing the essence of the most refined après-ski.

A sophisticated color story—midnight black, powdered white, pine green, deep burgundy, and chocolate brown—infuses warmth and elegance into pieces designed to glide from the slopes to intimate evening gatherings. Voluminous fur coats pair with ultra-soft leather leggings, while sleek tube skirts, embroidered or minimal, embrace the timeless contrast of black and white. The classic tuxedo gets a fresh update with cropped trousers, which also complement a jewel-embellished sixties-inspired jacket, a standout piece that pairs effortlessly with form-fitting midi skirts.

Alpine landscapes appear as signature motifs, from mountain peaks woven into cashmere sweaters to sequined ridges cascading over layered dresses. Sports luxe takes on a new edge with a figure-hugging zippered jumpsuit and a striking yellow parka, both poised to become instant icons.

As the slopes give way to evening elegance, the collection shifts into a more opulent mood. Structured silk corsets flow into sweeping mermaid lace skirts, while tiered bead embellishments on floor-length gowns evoke the glacial shimmer of moonlit waves. Accessories heighten the alpine aesthetic with Alaskan-style hats, visor sunglasses, and fur-trimmed snow boots, complemented by plush fur bags in various sizes and the latest additions to the THE WAVE handbag collection.

Designed with timeless craftsmanship and boundless creativity, Elie Saab’s latest collection redefines winter luxury with a modern, tactile, and undeniably feminine approach. A tribute to the woman who seeks the perfect balance between functionality and opulence at high altitudes.

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