Fendi Fall 2025 Collection
Silvia Venturini Fendi had an unenviable task: how do you celebrate five generations, 100 years of design, and an unparalleled legacy without getting lost in nostalgia? Her answer was clear—by looking forward. The Fendi Fall/Winter 2025 collection wasn’t a mere archival tribute but rather a vivid reinterpretation of the house’s codes, filtered through memory, craftsmanship, and modernity.
The setting itself was a mirage of history—a nod to the iconic boutique and atelier on Via Borgognona in Rome, where the five Fendi sisters—Alda, Anna, Carla, Franca, and Paola—worked by day and hosted the glittering jet set of Cinecittà by night. It was a place where secrets were whispered, glamour was second nature, and the essence of Fendi was defined.
This season, that spirit was distilled into a collection that exuded confidence, heritage, and innovation. The opening look—a faux-mink coat worn as a dress, paired with satin open-toe heels—immediately set the tone: classic yet subversive, luxurious yet effortless. Throughout the show, sculptural silhouettes emerged, as pleated leather and tweed encrusted with embellishments carved out powerful, rounded shoulders. Meanwhile, wool coats were accessorized with furry Baguette bags, and a playful combination of netted veils and knit caps added an eccentric, aristocratic touch.
Accessories were far from an afterthought—they were a statement. The iconic Peekaboo was reinvented with a plush, textural makeover, while the Spy Bag made its much-anticipated return, reclaiming its place in Fendi’s visual lexicon. Even in menswear, Silvia’s asymmetrical lapels, floor-length fur stoles, and unexpected bursts of color challenged traditional Italian tailoring. Canary yellow, burnt orange, lace, and beaded accents disrupted the usual severity of menswear, making for a refreshing break from the monotony of recent seasons.
Then, there were the oversized Fendi plush toys—a knowing wink to the brand’s legacy of playful, collectible accessories. In a show so steeped in history, this touch of irreverence was exactly what was needed to balance the grandeur with a sense of lightness.
For Silvia, this was more than just a runway show—it was a personal reflection on the house she has known her entire life. She opened with a deeply sentimental nod to her own past: a memory from 1966, when Karl Lagerfeld asked six-year-old Silvia to walk the runway in an equestrian ensemble. In a poignant full-circle moment, her grandsons, Tazio and Dardo—also six years old—took to the runway wearing oversized replicas of that very look, symbolizing five generations of Fendi’s creative spirit.
Yet, for all its homage to heritage, the collection avoided the pitfall of heavy-handed nostalgia. Instead, Silvia sought to capture the raw emotion, adrenaline, and evolution of the house’s DNA. There were few literal references to past collections, but subtle homages were woven throughout—most notably in the loose-knit caps with delicate veils, a tribute to Adele Fendi, who famously framed her face with a netted headpiece tied to her chignon.
Gender fluidity was another strong undercurrent, seamlessly woven into mohair knits with blurred horizontal stripes, embroidered embellishments, and tonal zigzag-striped mink coats. Some menswear pieces made an impact—like a striking lemon-yellow chaban coat—but, as expected, womenswear took center stage.
No discussion of Fendi is complete without fur, but here, Silvia took a forward-thinking approach. While fur remains intrinsic to the house’s heritage, most standout outerwear pieces were crafted from shearling rather than mink, underscoring a shift towards conscious luxury. The red polka-dot dress, in particular, stood out as a dazzling display of the house’s artisanal excellence, seamlessly blending tradition with technical innovation.
More than just a centennial spectacle, Fendi FW25 was a masterclass in balancing legacy with evolution. In a moment when many brands are leaning heavily on nostalgia, Silvia Venturini Fendi chose to push forward, crafting a collection that honors the past without being burdened by it. Through a mix of emotional storytelling, exquisite craftsmanship, and daring reinvention, she reaffirmed Fendi’s place at the forefront of fashion’s next century—a house built by women, for women, and always in conversation with the future.
