Phan Huy Spring 2026 Couture Collection
For his first appearance on the official Paris haute couture calendar, Phan Huy played it deliberately safe—and wisely so—leaning into craftsmanship and classic couture codes to announce his arrival.
At just 26, Huy made history as both the youngest guest designer showing under his own name and the first couturier from Vietnam to do so. Backstage applause before the show underscored the weight of the moment. Rather than relying on overt cultural references, Huy—alongside London-based cofounder Steven Doan—channeled heritage through technique.
The collection was anchored in labor-intensive textiles. Tulle was structured with horsehair tubing to form fan-like stripes, while three-dimensional embroideries were built from individually applied sculptural loops. Organza dresses bloomed with 3D-cut leaves, each edged with tubular beads and meticulously stitched into place. A vivid red gown worn by Coco Rocha—alive with movement—reportedly took three months to complete.
Silhouettes largely adhered to a Western couture archetype: tightly corseted bodices, opulent skirts, and frequent crinoline structures. Shorter looks carried a flirtatious edge, while longer gowns leaned conservative, favoring elegance over risk.
Where Phan truly excelled was in fluidity. Net dresses densely embroidered with stones shimmered with restraint, while a column gown in gauze, veiled in cascading strands of sparkle, delivered quiet drama. Embellished bralettes, studded with crystals and sequins, introduced a lighter, more playful sensuality.
